RICCARDO TISCI: BURBERRY’S NEW CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER

Finally, it won’t be Phoebe Philo. After the announcement of her leaving from Céline, many fashion players, including ourselves, were betting she would be the suitable successor to Christopher Bailey. But Burberry surprised us and Riccardo Tisci will set up in the English fashion-house from next March 12th.

The Italian designer who left Givenchy in 2017 after turning it into a modern luxury fashion brand, will present his first fashion show for Burberry in September during London Fashion Week. He will have the exciting and complex task of making the brand highly desirable again but also setting the new style by staying true to its English roots.
His departure from Paris to London will be a return to the city and culture he knows well: he lived there and studied at Central Saint Martins, the famous fashion school, from which he graduated in 1999.

His style is a shady mix of Italian up-and-coming Caravaggio, neo-Gothic and streetwear culture that has become his recognizable signature which conquered a young audience. Furthermore, Riccardo is a star of social networks, whose notoriety goes further than the restricted fashion circle.

The challenge is significant as 2017 has been a transition year for Burberry in the luxury market. However, the Italian designer has already proved he is able to “re-glamourize” a great brand, one that was in a greater perdition than is today the trench-coat house.

Tisci, a longtime friend of stars, who subscribes to the dark romanticism and black-and-white looks, is likely to shake the codes of the British company and maybe make the year 2018, the year of Burberry.

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NYFW: LESS IS MORE

New York Fashion Week just ended on Friday with a lack of any enthusiasm. Despite a busy schedule filled with events, departures of famous designers such as Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra and lastly Alexander Wang from the NYFW, left us wondering if the transatlantic fashion week was still worth attending.

NYFW’s schedule was dense with 136 fashion shows packed over ten days. The length of this February’s edition, the longest on record, potentially discouraged designers who have to follow-up with London, Milan, and Paris with the same frenetic pace. Part of the oversaturated fashion week is due to the unification of men’s and women’s ready-to-wear into one combined fashion week.

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At the same time, brands are deconstructing fashion weeks calendars. Recently, Alexander Wang chose to retire from the NYFW to showcase on his own in June and December while Tommy Hilfiger continues with his See-Now-Buy-Now, to create a spectacular fashion show which highlights a different capital each week.

The Big Apple is left to count on emerging designers and younger labels to make up the difference. Isn’t the whole point of New York to propose something that you cannot find anywhere else? Narciso Rodriguez presented their capsule collection with Barney’s on their 20th anniversary with a small committee reminiscent of a literary summit and Rosetta Getty revealed her sculptural pieces in her private loft in Tribeca.

Of course, we are missing the great talents that once took center stage of the New York schedule and who contributed to its success, but intimate presentations seem to be the trend and could contribute to the transformation of NYFW. Their back-to-the-roots could stand for “Less is more”: creativity and subtlety over fame.

PREMIERE VISION: THE TRENDS RACE

Première Vision, the fashion worldwide tradeshow is setting in the Parc des Expositions de Villepinte, in North of Paris from today to Thursday, February 15th. Fashion players from all over the world are taking the line to go in.

For this first day, I arrived there at around 10:30 am, expecting to avoid the crowd. Mistake. Just a few minutes after the opening, the tradeshow was already full of professionals ready to seek new trends, fabrics or colors. Exhibitors are allocating in four halls (Hall3, 4, 5 and 6) and in 6 categories (accessories, designs, fabrics, leather, manufacturing, and yarns). So depending on what you are looking for, it’s easy to find your quarter.

Amidst prints and colors, you can also find manufacturing companies, trend agencies, new technologies companies, bookstores… anything a fashion designer or company would need. You can feel the atmosphere and how it’s important for people there to find the right fabric, print or product while at the same time watch out for what the neighbor is doing. Some exhibitors are so successful that in order to meet them you have to queue up.

While you are there, you can see, touch, and even smell if necessary… The only negative point is that you have to keep it for yourself. NO PICTURES! Security agents were really involved to uphold this rule, which was a little frustrating as I wanted to share with you my visit on Instagram… but I do understand their reasons.

However as I couldn’t take pictures, I took notes and I can share with you that Spring/Summer 2019 will be inspired by tender and true stories, clearly funny within the same time paradoxical ideas such as intensive and freshness, nature and device. Première Vision presents the colors of the next season on huge structures. Many colors with inspiring names (kumquat neon, pulp lilas, bubble-gum, honey sun, blue shark…) but also their combination in video to create the mood of tomorrow: for women, you can find “Great Romance” or “Graphic Softness” and for men, “Bright Elegance” or “City Club”.

It was really interesting to be part of this big event of the fashion industry and see what’s next, as future collections and trends are mainly decided here.

If I give you the desire to go (and I hope so), save the date, the next session will be in September 2018 from Wednesday 19th to Friday 21th, but if you are too impatient, you still can book your flight and attend to the international sessions.

 

TREND SPOTTING FOR MEN’S F/W18

With controversies befalling big guys in the industry, from Bruce Weber to Mario Testino, this season’s Men’s Fashion Week, proved to be quiet as if to give ample time and space for reflection. Sluggish. Almost contrived, even. Still, the collections invite us to be positive, to keep on with the struggle for having a more sane, more secure working environment, and to remember that despite everything, fashion is still supposed to be fun. Here are 5 trends we spotted on the runway during last week’s shows.

1. Catch a Red Eye

While Pantone foresees Ultra Violet as the new Color of the Year, playful splashes of red are seen on the runways. Highlighting the silhouette, crimson pieces stand out amidst earthy autumn hues. No matter the cut or the texture, it’s sure that this color, the symbol of passion, will make heads turn. Only for the brave.

2. Sherlock Who?

This season is British, with tartan and other plaids everywhere. Classic for Dries Van Noten or colorful and patched for Versace, the detective vibe is palpable.

3. Oh, my leather!

When and why did men ever swap leather outerwear for flimsy wool coats littered with stray dog hair? We fall in love with Berluti and Cerruti 1881‘s camel trenches but give a huge applause to Y/Project and its baggy sportswear version.

4. Grandpa, I am stealing your sweater

Suddenly it’s cool to dress like your history professor. Designers took the quintessential sweater, dusted it off, and revamped it with modern cuts and various colorways. Big crush on that Marni yellow sweater.

5. Baby, it’s cold outside

I always thought a person who wears a bonnet is someone who just gave up and chose comfort over style. But fun iterations are spotted this season, from Junya Watanabe’s in solid scarlet, in tartan version at Haider Ackermann, to Margiela’s in plastic, the accessory is not just reserved for the Commander Cousteau in the next months.

 

While ignorance of law excuses no one, gentlemen, we’ve just provided you with a nifty cheat sheet and now you know which pieces to get and what styling tricks to employ. Bury your Canada Goose parka in the snow. Let’s start there. See you next Fall!

If you had to get one item for F/W 2018, what would you get? Answer us in the comments section!

ULTRAVIOLET 18-3838: LET’S MOVE FORWARD

If we believe Pantone Color Institute, 2018 will be quirky, inventive, and even forward-thinking through the new Color of the Year: Ultra Violet 18-3838. According to Pantone and after Greenery and its revitalizing, this color is more than a trend in design. It encourages boldness, creativity, and inventiveness. Besides, some designers already let themselves be tempted in their Spring/Summer 18 collections.

Moschino presents a rock’n’roll corset which brings to the fore a feminine chest. Calvin Klein chooses a classic pant to combine modernity and a safe bet. In a more retro-design, Kenzo proposes a 60’s inspiration dress – skilfully accessorized. Finally, Gucci confirms its new trend pioneer position with a total look UltraViolet look.

Of course dear readers, we don’t expect you to wear extravagant pieces such as Gucci but this new Color of the Year can be added smartly in your closet (take advantage of the sales period!). Find below some suggestions:

If you want to start slowly, we recommend you a classic outfit with a small touch of UltraViolet, such as accessories like the bag from La Redoute for 11,99€ (19,99€ before sales) and the scarf from Zara for 14,99€ (17,95€ b. s.).

We can also suggest you a pair of shoes to pimp up your style: both are from Asos (Boots: 33,49€ / Nike: 61,49€).

A timeless piece could be also a top to wear with black or blue jeans in any circumstances: Mango shirt, now 19,99€ and Edwin men T-shirt, 23,99€.

Lastly, you could be even bolder and opt for an UltraViolet jacket. For women, we choose a varnished padded jacket (43,49 €) and for men a velvet classic blazer (65,99 €).

The rest is up to you! Please share with us your ideas/purchases in the comment section below or share your UltraViolet look on Instagram using #MyUltraViolet.

 

KEY THINGS TO REMEMBER FROM VOGUE FASHION FESTIVAL 2017

On October 24th and 25th of this year, the hotel Potocki welcomed Vogue Fashion Festival, second edition in partnership with Swarovski and as special guest Karl Lagerfeld. From masterclasses to conferences, the great names in the world of fashion gave their advice. Here are key things for us to remember:

The creativity: The subject was highlighted. François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s CEO, gave his advice to reach Millenials. He took as examples Saint Laurent or Gucci that have created a harmonious creative universe consistent for this generation. The emotional component really matters for this age group while rational luxury codes like heritage or craftsmanship don’t speak enough to them. He recommended brands to create desire and dream through a strong story-telling and to satisfy their emotional need by a creative risk-taking. Also, the relationship between art and fashion has been spotlighted by collaborations such as Louis Vuitton with Takeshi Murakami, Richard Prince or Stephen Sprouse as well as fashion exhibitions in prestigious museums like Christian Dior in Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

Channels of communication 2.0: Jacquemus or Caroline de Maigret testified of Instagram’s added value in their brand image or in their career. They recommended being universal while at the same time staying honest and sincere. Snapchat became one of the most influential social media, very successful with young people. Emmanuel Durant, general manager of Snapchat France explained that the app and fashion have for common point the creative spirit but also announced it should be recast, allowing users to find easily new influencers to follow. He concluded with Snapchat glasses made to eliminate barriers and be able to record in real-time memories.  Finally, Karl Lagerfeld, a special guest of this edition, mentioned these ways of communication, giving, for example, his sketches sent by iPhone or his fittings for Fendi by Facetime.

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Be passionate: Whether it is to launch your start-up or succeed in your interview for a job, the idea is the same: you have to enjoy what you are doing and believe in it. For Ingrid Brochart, Panoply’s founder, “When we believe, it goes faster.” No matter what ambitions or projects, recommendations were to strike out and trust your ideas.

NO TERRENCE, THAT IS NOT PART OF THE JOB! #MyJobShouldNotIncludeAbuse

Terry Richardson is the « Harvey Weinstein of fashion ». After scandals in Hollywood, tongues are starting to loosen also in the fashion world. The powerful tsunami of accusations launched against the famous producer smashes also the once-famous photographer, well known for his «porno chic» and his provocative pictures with erotic or sexual assumed character.

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On October 23, The Telegraph reported that Condé Nast was refusing to work with the artist after many models have accused him of sexual assault.

The power. That is what these men are using. Industries like cinema or fashion imply that men, such as Terry Richardson or Harvey Weinstein, are the gatekeepers to an actress or model’s career. They make unsuspecting, aspiring models and actresses that knowing them is a gift– an excellent springboard for the rest of their career… But in reality, the story is different. These men abuse their power to obtain what they want. The fashion world creates a social and newsworthy environment where reports of sexual assaults are met with blank stares, excuses, or are simply trivialized.

After the ousting of Terry Richardson, the fashion world should not stop here. Its role is now to denounce and put on trial the ones who have been serial abusers. The harassment has to stop everywhere, in every industry, and not only in the street but also in the attitudes towards sexual assault survivors.