THE « JEU, SET AND MATCH » OF MARINE SERRE

The Roland Garros tournament is currently animating the city of Paris. At the pace of the sets, the public admires the exchanges between the players and their outfits … Not really fashion, you may say, but the little Frenchie Marine Serre could convince you otherwise. The new darling of the Parisian fashion is inspired by her former passion to offer superb collections that buyers are snapping up. Yet the success of this young designer was not written in advance.

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Marine SERRE grew up in the South-West of France in Brive-la-Gaillarde, raised by an SNCF supervisor father and a mother working in the French administration. Until she was 16, she only lived for tennis, even considered as a young French tennis prospect, but a failure at the Roland Garros selections pushed her to another path.

She then hangs up the racket and joins a school of applied arts where she discovers and develops a new rope to her bow, being a fashion designer. She continued her studies at La Calade de Marseille, then at the Cambre de Bruxelles, from where she graduated in June 2016. Her resume is completed by several internships with leading designers, such as Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Maison Margiela or Dior … The world of fashion totally absolves her when, in the space of a few months, she is selected for ANDAM, for the Hyères Festival and as the winner of the LVMH2017 award.

Her greatest asset is to combine sportswear and couture, to be creative and fresh. A pure and spontaneous soul as we love them in the fashion world. An innate but shy talent.

Believe us, keep an eye on this young nugget. French talent has not finished making us salivate. Jacquemus has better watch out, he may not be anymore the only French to seduce.

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ASHLEY GRAHAM: BEAUTY HAS NO SIZE

In a few years, the American model has been able to impose her style and her voluptuous curves in an industry where zero-size is required. Portrait of an uninhibited woman.

 

« Nobody wants to see curvy women », fashion is a matter of « dreams and illusions », Karl Lagerfeld said. Well, Ashley Graham proves easily the opposite. When all models retouch, use and abuse Photoshop, the 30-year-old top stands out. She shows up without a bra or panties, loose hairstyle, her eyes enhanced by the eye-liner, a real pin-up. A beauty from another galaxy. A universe where women have breasts, hips, buttocks.

 

Still, it has not always been easy to love this size 48 and the cellulite delivered with it. Little girl, her father « was the king of hurtful insults », she recalls. In high school, she is dumped by her boyfriend who said that one day, she will become as obese as her mother.

She didn’t become this icon with a snap. Spotted at 12 in a mall, Ashley was 17 when she moved alone to New-York. « I was immediately asked to lose weight. It had the opposite effect: I took 10 kilos ». Size plus model, the brunette does not let go. She knows that the average size of American women is 48. She grits her teeth when the other girls asked if, she will also be paid for the shooting, because of her weight. It will encourage her to be a real body-activist. That’s how, she created Alda, in 2014, with four others models, an association that promotes diversity and all forms of beauty.

Ashley gladly admits that sometimes it can still be hard but she doesn’t want to comply with the standards of beauty enacted by the fashion industry. She continues to cover prestigious magazines and parade for major brands and she definitely convinced all the industry that beauty does not have just one definition.

RICCARDO TISCI: BURBERRY’S NEW CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER

Finally, it won’t be Phoebe Philo. After the announcement of her leaving from Céline, many fashion players, including ourselves, were betting she would be the suitable successor to Christopher Bailey. But Burberry surprised us and Riccardo Tisci will set up in the English fashion-house from next March 12th.

The Italian designer who left Givenchy in 2017 after turning it into a modern luxury fashion brand, will present his first fashion show for Burberry in September during London Fashion Week. He will have the exciting and complex task of making the brand highly desirable again but also setting the new style by staying true to its English roots.
His departure from Paris to London will be a return to the city and culture he knows well: he lived there and studied at Central Saint Martins, the famous fashion school, from which he graduated in 1999.

His style is a shady mix of Italian up-and-coming Caravaggio, neo-Gothic and streetwear culture that has become his recognizable signature which conquered a young audience. Furthermore, Riccardo is a star of social networks, whose notoriety goes further than the restricted fashion circle.

The challenge is significant as 2017 has been a transition year for Burberry in the luxury market. However, the Italian designer has already proved he is able to “re-glamourize” a great brand, one that was in a greater perdition than is today the trench-coat house.

Tisci, a longtime friend of stars, who subscribes to the dark romanticism and black-and-white looks, is likely to shake the codes of the British company and maybe make the year 2018, the year of Burberry.

TREND SPOTTING FOR MEN’S F/W18

With controversies befalling big guys in the industry, from Bruce Weber to Mario Testino, this season’s Men’s Fashion Week, proved to be quiet as if to give ample time and space for reflection. Sluggish. Almost contrived, even. Still, the collections invite us to be positive, to keep on with the struggle for having a more sane, more secure working environment, and to remember that despite everything, fashion is still supposed to be fun. Here are 5 trends we spotted on the runway during last week’s shows.

1. Catch a Red Eye

While Pantone foresees Ultra Violet as the new Color of the Year, playful splashes of red are seen on the runways. Highlighting the silhouette, crimson pieces stand out amidst earthy autumn hues. No matter the cut or the texture, it’s sure that this color, the symbol of passion, will make heads turn. Only for the brave.

2. Sherlock Who?

This season is British, with tartan and other plaids everywhere. Classic for Dries Van Noten or colorful and patched for Versace, the detective vibe is palpable.

3. Oh, my leather!

When and why did men ever swap leather outerwear for flimsy wool coats littered with stray dog hair? We fall in love with Berluti and Cerruti 1881‘s camel trenches but give a huge applause to Y/Project and its baggy sportswear version.

4. Grandpa, I am stealing your sweater

Suddenly it’s cool to dress like your history professor. Designers took the quintessential sweater, dusted it off, and revamped it with modern cuts and various colorways. Big crush on that Marni yellow sweater.

5. Baby, it’s cold outside

I always thought a person who wears a bonnet is someone who just gave up and chose comfort over style. But fun iterations are spotted this season, from Junya Watanabe’s in solid scarlet, in tartan version at Haider Ackermann, to Margiela’s in plastic, the accessory is not just reserved for the Commander Cousteau in the next months.

 

While ignorance of law excuses no one, gentlemen, we’ve just provided you with a nifty cheat sheet and now you know which pieces to get and what styling tricks to employ. Bury your Canada Goose parka in the snow. Let’s start there. See you next Fall!

If you had to get one item for F/W 2018, what would you get? Answer us in the comments section!

ULTRAVIOLET 18-3838: LET’S MOVE FORWARD

If we believe Pantone Color Institute, 2018 will be quirky, inventive, and even forward-thinking through the new Color of the Year: Ultra Violet 18-3838. According to Pantone and after Greenery and its revitalizing, this color is more than a trend in design. It encourages boldness, creativity, and inventiveness. Besides, some designers already let themselves be tempted in their Spring/Summer 18 collections.

Moschino presents a rock’n’roll corset which brings to the fore a feminine chest. Calvin Klein chooses a classic pant to combine modernity and a safe bet. In a more retro-design, Kenzo proposes a 60’s inspiration dress – skilfully accessorized. Finally, Gucci confirms its new trend pioneer position with a total look UltraViolet look.

Of course dear readers, we don’t expect you to wear extravagant pieces such as Gucci but this new Color of the Year can be added smartly in your closet (take advantage of the sales period!). Find below some suggestions:

If you want to start slowly, we recommend you a classic outfit with a small touch of UltraViolet, such as accessories like the bag from La Redoute for 11,99€ (19,99€ before sales) and the scarf from Zara for 14,99€ (17,95€ b. s.).

We can also suggest you a pair of shoes to pimp up your style: both are from Asos (Boots: 33,49€ / Nike: 61,49€).

A timeless piece could be also a top to wear with black or blue jeans in any circumstances: Mango shirt, now 19,99€ and Edwin men T-shirt, 23,99€.

Lastly, you could be even bolder and opt for an UltraViolet jacket. For women, we choose a varnished padded jacket (43,49 €) and for men a velvet classic blazer (65,99 €).

The rest is up to you! Please share with us your ideas/purchases in the comment section below or share your UltraViolet look on Instagram using #MyUltraViolet.

 

NO TERRENCE, THAT IS NOT PART OF THE JOB! #MyJobShouldNotIncludeAbuse

Terry Richardson is the « Harvey Weinstein of fashion ». After scandals in Hollywood, tongues are starting to loosen also in the fashion world. The powerful tsunami of accusations launched against the famous producer smashes also the once-famous photographer, well known for his «porno chic» and his provocative pictures with erotic or sexual assumed character.

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On October 23, The Telegraph reported that Condé Nast was refusing to work with the artist after many models have accused him of sexual assault.

The power. That is what these men are using. Industries like cinema or fashion imply that men, such as Terry Richardson or Harvey Weinstein, are the gatekeepers to an actress or model’s career. They make unsuspecting, aspiring models and actresses that knowing them is a gift– an excellent springboard for the rest of their career… But in reality, the story is different. These men abuse their power to obtain what they want. The fashion world creates a social and newsworthy environment where reports of sexual assaults are met with blank stares, excuses, or are simply trivialized.

After the ousting of Terry Richardson, the fashion world should not stop here. Its role is now to denounce and put on trial the ones who have been serial abusers. The harassment has to stop everywhere, in every industry, and not only in the street but also in the attitudes towards sexual assault survivors.

ACCESSORIES DID THEIR SHOW DURING FASHION WEEK

Even though collections and clothes that compose them are still being stars of the Fashion Week, our eyes could not avoid accessories that accompanied them. Minimalistic design or extravagant, there was something to suit all tastes. Designers have been bold and imaginative.

When it comes to bags, Missoni proposes a minimalist format with a pannier wearing as a necklace while Gucci suggests an XXXL version. Those of Maison Margiela and Thom Browne take surprising shapes as pillow and dog.

For Spring/Summer 2018, we didn’t expect neither to see thigh-high boots on the runway. However, in PVC for Chanel or in electric yellow wrapped around the leg for Y/Project, they break the cleavage seasons and get their place between pumps and sandals.

Once the weather gets warmer and the sun comes back, glasses are our best partners: among the futuristic version of Prada, a retro look from Gucci or a floral shape from Dolce&Gabbana, it’s up to us to choose.

Finally, add a beautiful pair of earrings to enhance your natural beauty. Arty, disco, mismatched… Each style brings value to your silhouette.

Trust us, put one of these finishing touches on a basic look and you will be a real fashionista!