NYFW: LESS IS MORE

New York Fashion Week just ended on Friday with a lack of any enthusiasm. Despite a busy schedule filled with events, departures of famous designers such as Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra and lastly Alexander Wang from the NYFW, left us wondering if the transatlantic fashion week was still worth attending.

NYFW’s schedule was dense with 136 fashion shows packed over ten days. The length of this February’s edition, the longest on record, potentially discouraged designers who have to follow-up with London, Milan, and Paris with the same frenetic pace. Part of the oversaturated fashion week is due to the unification of men’s and women’s ready-to-wear into one combined fashion week.

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At the same time, brands are deconstructing fashion weeks calendars. Recently, Alexander Wang chose to retire from the NYFW to showcase on his own in June and December while Tommy Hilfiger continues with his See-Now-Buy-Now, to create a spectacular fashion show which highlights a different capital each week.

The Big Apple is left to count on emerging designers and younger labels to make up the difference. Isn’t the whole point of New York to propose something that you cannot find anywhere else? Narciso Rodriguez presented their capsule collection with Barney’s on their 20th anniversary with a small committee reminiscent of a literary summit and Rosetta Getty revealed her sculptural pieces in her private loft in Tribeca.

Of course, we are missing the great talents that once took center stage of the New York schedule and who contributed to its success, but intimate presentations seem to be the trend and could contribute to the transformation of NYFW. Their back-to-the-roots could stand for “Less is more”: creativity and subtlety over fame.

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PREMIERE VISION: THE TRENDS RACE

Première Vision, the fashion worldwide tradeshow is setting in the Parc des Expositions de Villepinte, in North of Paris from today to Thursday, February 15th. Fashion players from all over the world are taking the line to go in.

For this first day, I arrived there at around 10:30 am, expecting to avoid the crowd. Mistake. Just a few minutes after the opening, the tradeshow was already full of professionals ready to seek new trends, fabrics or colors. Exhibitors are allocating in four halls (Hall3, 4, 5 and 6) and in 6 categories (accessories, designs, fabrics, leather, manufacturing, and yarns). So depending on what you are looking for, it’s easy to find your quarter.

Amidst prints and colors, you can also find manufacturing companies, trend agencies, new technologies companies, bookstores… anything a fashion designer or company would need. You can feel the atmosphere and how it’s important for people there to find the right fabric, print or product while at the same time watch out for what the neighbor is doing. Some exhibitors are so successful that in order to meet them you have to queue up.

While you are there, you can see, touch, and even smell if necessary… The only negative point is that you have to keep it for yourself. NO PICTURES! Security agents were really involved to uphold this rule, which was a little frustrating as I wanted to share with you my visit on Instagram… but I do understand their reasons.

However as I couldn’t take pictures, I took notes and I can share with you that Spring/Summer 2019 will be inspired by tender and true stories, clearly funny within the same time paradoxical ideas such as intensive and freshness, nature and device. Première Vision presents the colors of the next season on huge structures. Many colors with inspiring names (kumquat neon, pulp lilas, bubble-gum, honey sun, blue shark…) but also their combination in video to create the mood of tomorrow: for women, you can find “Great Romance” or “Graphic Softness” and for men, “Bright Elegance” or “City Club”.

It was really interesting to be part of this big event of the fashion industry and see what’s next, as future collections and trends are mainly decided here.

If I give you the desire to go (and I hope so), save the date, the next session will be in September 2018 from Wednesday 19th to Friday 21th, but if you are too impatient, you still can book your flight and attend to the international sessions.

 

KEY THINGS TO REMEMBER FROM VOGUE FASHION FESTIVAL 2017

On October 24th and 25th of this year, the hotel Potocki welcomed Vogue Fashion Festival, second edition in partnership with Swarovski and as special guest Karl Lagerfeld. From masterclasses to conferences, the great names in the world of fashion gave their advice. Here are key things for us to remember:

The creativity: The subject was highlighted. François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s CEO, gave his advice to reach Millenials. He took as examples Saint Laurent or Gucci that have created a harmonious creative universe consistent for this generation. The emotional component really matters for this age group while rational luxury codes like heritage or craftsmanship don’t speak enough to them. He recommended brands to create desire and dream through a strong story-telling and to satisfy their emotional need by a creative risk-taking. Also, the relationship between art and fashion has been spotlighted by collaborations such as Louis Vuitton with Takeshi Murakami, Richard Prince or Stephen Sprouse as well as fashion exhibitions in prestigious museums like Christian Dior in Musée des Arts Décoratifs.

Channels of communication 2.0: Jacquemus or Caroline de Maigret testified of Instagram’s added value in their brand image or in their career. They recommended being universal while at the same time staying honest and sincere. Snapchat became one of the most influential social media, very successful with young people. Emmanuel Durant, general manager of Snapchat France explained that the app and fashion have for common point the creative spirit but also announced it should be recast, allowing users to find easily new influencers to follow. He concluded with Snapchat glasses made to eliminate barriers and be able to record in real-time memories.  Finally, Karl Lagerfeld, a special guest of this edition, mentioned these ways of communication, giving, for example, his sketches sent by iPhone or his fittings for Fendi by Facetime.

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Be passionate: Whether it is to launch your start-up or succeed in your interview for a job, the idea is the same: you have to enjoy what you are doing and believe in it. For Ingrid Brochart, Panoply’s founder, “When we believe, it goes faster.” No matter what ambitions or projects, recommendations were to strike out and trust your ideas.